Avaliação de emulsões fotoprotetoras produzidas com óleo de sementes de moringa oleífera

Abstract

The photoprotection capacity of cosmetic emulsions produced with oil extracted from oily moringa seeds was evaluated. In relation to oil, the sun protection factor (SPF) presented was 1.07 at a concentration of 20 μL mL-1 , the identification of volatile compounds showed a high concentration of oleic acid (87.74%), the concentration of phenols total found was 15.07 mg EAG g-1 of oil, the antioxidant activity, determined by IC50 and antioxidant activity index (IAA), was IC50 = 925.12μg mL-1 and IAA = 0.06, and the concentration of chelating ability was 53.58%. The emulsion was prepared with moringa oil seed oil as oily phase and making a mixture of surfactants, using Procetyl AWS (Croda) as surfactant and oleic acid (Synth) as cosurfactant in the proportion of 2:1. Emulsions prepared with 5% oil in their formulation showed a sun protection factor above 27, different from emulsions prepared with 10% oil which presented a sun protection factor below 14. Two emulsions prepared without the addition of oleic acid in their formulation formulation did not show phase separation, presenting SPF similar to formulations with the addition of oleic acid. The emulsions obtained presented the behavior of pseudoplastic fluids, according to the viscosity curve as a function of the rotation speed (rpm) performed by rheometer analysis (Brookfield, DV-III Ultra), which allows for better spreading on the skin. Therefore, the use of oil from oily moringa seeds showed potential for the production of photoprotective emulsions.